The G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed is a limited-edition watch created by Zenith and Naoya Hida & Co. The watch features a platinum case and a solid silver dial with hand-engraved markings filled with blue Japanese Urushi lacquer. Gold hour and minute hands are paired with a heat-blued small seconds hand, while dual signatures from both brands appear on the dial. The design combines traditional Japanese lacquer craftsmanship with details rooted in mid-century watchmaking.
The watch is powered by Zenith’s hand-wound Calibre 135 movement, which offers a 72-hour power reserve and COSC-certified accuracy. Visible through the sapphire caseback, the movement features Geneva stripes, a Breguet overcoil, a large variable-inertia balance wheel, and yellow gold accents. Zenith includes three interchangeable straps made from Himeji Kurozan leather, Kyoto Wagyu leather, and Kaihara indigo denim.
Image Credit: Zenith
Why This Trend Is Growing
- Traditional Craftsmanship Meets Haute Horlogerie
- Integration of Urushi lacquer and hand-engraved silver dials with precision movements creates novel material-technology combinations that redefine luxury watch narratives.
- Heritage Dual-brand Collaborations
- Co-Branded limited editions that combine provenance from established manufacturers and independent artisanal houses generate distinct collectible value through layered authenticity.
- Artisanal Material Diversification and Interchangeable Styling
- Use of specialty leathers, Wagyu-derived skins, and indigo denim in interchangeable straps introduces new avenues for personalized luxury and cross-category material storytelling.
Industries Being Reshaped
- Luxury Watchmaking
- Luxury watch firms are positioned to benefit from renewed interest in hand-wound movements, visible finishing, and scarce, craft-driven complications that emphasize mechanical legitimacy.
- High-end Leather and Textile Goods
- Premium strap suppliers and small-batch tanneries face opportunities as demand grows for provenance-rich, unconventional materials that extend brand narratives beyond apparel.
- Cultural Craft Preservation and Upskilling
- Organizations focused on preserving traditional lacquer and engraving techniques are seeing increased relevance as luxury brands source artisanal expertise to meet authenticity-seeking consumers.
