The G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed is a limited-edition watch created by Zenith and Naoya Hida & Co. The watch features a platinum case and a solid silver dial with hand-engraved markings filled with blue Japanese Urushi lacquer. Gold hour and minute hands are paired with a heat-blued small seconds hand, while dual signatures from both brands appear on the dial. The design combines traditional Japanese lacquer craftsmanship with details rooted in mid-century watchmaking.
The watch is powered by Zenith’s hand-wound Calibre 135 movement, which offers a 72-hour power reserve and COSC-certified accuracy. Visible through the sapphire caseback, the movement features Geneva stripes, a Breguet overcoil, a large variable-inertia balance wheel, and yellow gold accents. Zenith includes three interchangeable straps made from Himeji Kurozan leather, Kyoto Wagyu leather, and Kaihara indigo denim.
Urushi Lacquer Watches
The G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed Features a Hand-Engraved Silver Dial
Trend Themes
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Traditional Craftsmanship Meets Haute Horlogerie — Integration of Urushi lacquer and hand-engraved silver dials with precision movements creates novel material-technology combinations that redefine luxury watch narratives.
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Heritage Dual-brand Collaborations — Co-Branded limited editions that combine provenance from established manufacturers and independent artisanal houses generate distinct collectible value through layered authenticity.
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Artisanal Material Diversification and Interchangeable Styling — Use of specialty leathers, Wagyu-derived skins, and indigo denim in interchangeable straps introduces new avenues for personalized luxury and cross-category material storytelling.
Industry Implications
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Luxury Watchmaking — Luxury watch firms are positioned to benefit from renewed interest in hand-wound movements, visible finishing, and scarce, craft-driven complications that emphasize mechanical legitimacy.
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High-end Leather and Textile Goods — Premium strap suppliers and small-batch tanneries face opportunities as demand grows for provenance-rich, unconventional materials that extend brand narratives beyond apparel.
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Cultural Craft Preservation and Upskilling — Organizations focused on preserving traditional lacquer and engraving techniques are seeing increased relevance as luxury brands source artisanal expertise to meet authenticity-seeking consumers.