Mystery Meats Go Gourmet - Offal du Jour

Offal is the term used to describe all those undesirable cuts of meat that “fall off” the cutting board onto the floor.  They’re commonly found in ethnic markets: cow tongue at a Jewish deli, brain tacos at the Mexican taqueria, marrow soup at the Asian cafes.  Upscale restaurants are now in the offal game serving diners with adventurous palates.

Boston’s Biba restaurant has a regularly rotating offal menu.  Recent hits included duck testicles poached and braised in goose fat and calf’s brain flan flavored with sherry and capers. 

Butchers are thrilled there is a surge in offal demand.  That means they have less waste and bigger profits.  Recognizing that the texture of less popular cuts can be offputting, they’re grinding parts like pig jowl with ground beef.  The texture no longer becomes the focus but the flavor does.  The enhanced taste has been a hit at Lionette’s Market in Boston’s South End.